Uncle Sam doesn’t offer many gifts. This is one.

Contributing part of your salary to a 401(k) gives you three compelling benefits:

• You get an immediate tax break, because contributions come out of your paycheck before taxes are withheld.
• The possibility of a matching contribution from your employer — most commonly 50 cents on the dollar for the first 6% you save.
• You get tax-deferred growth — meaning you don’t pay taxes each year on capital gains, dividends, and other distributions.

The federal limit on annual contributions has been increasing gradually, and is $16,500 for the 2010 tax year. If you’re 50 or older, you may contribute an additional $5,500

Keep in mind, however, that while federal law sets the guidelines for what’s permissible in 401(k) plans, your employer may set tighter restrictions. Plus, it will take time for the administrators of your plan to implement the changes.

What’s more, there are other federal non-discrimination tests a 401(k) plan must meet, one of which applies to “highly compensated” employees. So if you make more than $110,000 a year (the limit for 2010), you may not be permitted to contribute as high a percentage of your salary as some of your lower paid colleagues.

For all its tax advantages, the 401(k) is not a penalty-free ride. Pull out money from your account before age 59-1/2, and with few exceptions, you’ll owe income taxes on the amount withdrawn plus an additional 10% penalty.

Also, be aware of your plan’s vesting schedule — the time you’re required to be at the company before you’re allowed to walk away with 100% of your employer matches. Of course, any money you contribute to a 401(k) is yours.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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To an insurer, you’re not a person; you’re a set of risks. An insurer bases its premium (or its decision to insure you at all) on your “risk factors,” including your occupation, who you are, what you own, and how you live.

2. Know your home’s value.

Before you choose a policy, it is essential to establish your home’s replacement cost. A local builder can provide the best estimate.

3. Insurers differ.

As with anything else you buy, what seems to be the same product can be priced differently by different companies. You can save money by comparison shopping.

4. Don’t just look at price.

A low price is no bargain if an insurer takes forever to service your claim. Research the insurer’s record for claims service, as well as its financial stability.

5. Go beyond the basics.

A basic homeowners policy may not promise to entirely replace your home.

6. Demand discounts. Insurers provide discounts to reward behavior that reduces risk.

However, Americans waste money every year because they forget to ask for them!

7. At claims time, your insurer isn’t necessarily your friend.

Your idea of fair compensation may not match that of your insurer. Your insurer’s job is to restore you financially. Your job is to prove your losses so you get what you need.

8. Prepare before you have to file a claim.

Keep your policy updated, and reread it before you file a claim so there are no surprises

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In effect, you’re giving the government an interest-free loan.

2. If you have too little withheld, you may be charged an underpayment penalty.

You must pay 90% of what you owe for the tax year by the end of that year or an amount equal to 100% of your tax liability for the previous tax year, whichever is smaller.

3. Not every dollar of your taxable income is taxed at the same rate.

That’s because portions of your earned income fall into different brackets, which are assigned different tax rates. Generally speaking, the first dollar you make will be taxed at a lower rate than your last dollar. Your marginal tax rate is the tax bracket at which the highest (or last) portion of your income is taxed.

4. Your combined tax bracket determines how much tax you’ll owe on income from investments such as CDs and money market funds.

Your combined bracket is the sum of your top (or marginal) federal tax rate and your top state income tax rate. It may be less if you itemize deductions since you will be able to deduct your state income tax on your federal return.

5. If you file your return by April 15, but don’t pay the tax you owe, you may receive a late payment penalty.

The same goes if you file for an extension. An extension only allows you to file your return after the due date. But full payment is still required by April 15. If you make a partial payment by then, you may be charged interest on the amount outstanding.

6. You can reduce your chances of being audited.

One of the best ways is to fill out your return completely, correctly, and on time every year.

7. You should pay estimated taxes if you’re self-employed; expect hefty investment income or profits from a property sale; or if you don’t have enough taxes withheld to cover the taxes you’ll owe on non-wage-related income.

Retirees should also consider paying them if they haven’t opted for voluntary withholding on their pension or IRA payments. Estimated taxes are due four times a year (April 15, June 15, Sept. 15, and Jan. 15).

8. Your adjusted gross income (AGI) is your total income minus certain “above the line” deductions such as deductible IRA contributions, alimony payments, or health savings account contributions.

Your AGI primarily determines whether or not you’re eligible for tax breaks. Almost every break, be it a deduction, exemption, or a credit, has its own AGI limit.

9. Your taxable income is your AGI minus exemptions and deductions.

The less your taxable income, the less in taxes you’ll owe. That’s why it’s in your best interest to take advantage of tax breaks where you can.

10. A credit is better than a deduction.

A credit is a dollar-for-dollar reduction of the taxes you owe. A $100 credit means you pay $100 less in taxes. A deduction reduces the taxes you owe by a percent of every dollar you’re allowed to deduct.

You calculate the worth of your deduction by multiplying your marginal (or top) tax rate by the amount of the deduction. If you’re in the 25% tax bracket, a $100 deduction means you’ll pay $25 less in taxes (0.25 times $100).

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Hey, wait. Don’t go down to the car dealer and start shopping immediately. Are you sure that the car, pickup, sport utility or van you have in mind is what you really need?

If you rush into a deal without carefully considering how you will really use the vehicle, you could be making a $25,500 mistake, at the average new-car price.

Sure, you want a car that will make you smile. But consider the purpose of most of your driving. Is it commuting? Hauling kids? Weekends? Vacations?

If you drive more than half an hour to work every day, a combination of a comfortable ride and reasonable gas mileage is important. If you frequently drive clients or co-workers to lunch, a sleek coupe won’t be welcoming for whomever has to crawl into the back seat; you need a four-door sedan.

If you frequently haul your kids and their many friends or classmates, a minivan or sport utility with three rows of seats may be essential. If weekend errands involve hauling building materials or large bushes, that same utility or van will come in handy.

Be honest with yourself. What is the largest number of people you carry regularly? What is the biggest pile of gear, luggage or haul from Home Depot that you regularly carry?

Once you have made this practical matchup, however, you still have lots of choices. With careful planning, you can get a vehicle that you need and really want.

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Your children will have more sources of money for college than you will have for your golden years, so don’t sacrifice your retirement savings.

2. The sooner you start saving, the better.

Even modest savings can pack a punch if you give them enough time to grow. Investing just $100 a month for 18 years will yield $48,000, assuming an 8% average annual return.

3. Stocks are best for your college savings portfolio.

With tuition costs rising faster than inflation, a portfolio tilted toward stocks is the best way to build enough savings in the long term. As your child approaches college age, you can shelter your returns by switching more money into bonds and cash.

4. You don’t have to save the entire cost of four years of college.

Federal, state, and private grants and loans can bridge the gap between your savings and tuition bills, even if you think you make too much to qualify.

5. With mutual funds, investing for college is simple.

Investing in mutual funds puts a professional in charge of your savings so that you don’t have to watch the markets daily.

6. 529 savings plans are a good way to save for college and they offer great tax breaks.

Qualified withdrawals are now free of federal tax and most plans let you save in excess of $200,000 per beneficiary. Plus, there are no income limitations or age restrictions, which means you can start a 529 no matter how much you make or how old your beneficiary is.

7. Tax breaks are almost as good as grants.

You may be able to take two federal tax credits — the American Opportunity Tax Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit — in the years you pay tuition.

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Those with more years until retirement can afford to put a greater percentage of their assets in the stock market.

2. Stocks mean risk and return.

Those with a higher tolerance for volatility should put more money in the stock market than those in the same age group who have a lower tolerance.

3. College savings funds need stocks.

Since college costs are rising faster than inflation, no other investment will keep pace as well as stocks. Invest more in stocks when your kids are young, and as they get older move more money into bonds.

4. Get professional advice.

One of the best ways to develop an effective asset allocation plan is to consult a qualified financial planner.

5. Allocation is the key to achieving your goals.

Studies have shown that asset allocation is the single most important factor in determining returns from investing.

6. Know your stock funds.

Before you set up your asset allocation plan, you must find out the nature of the companies purchased by the mutual funds you own. It’s not enough to go by the names of the funds themselves, either. In search of performance, far too many fund managers buy stocks that barely fit their portfolio’s explicit investing parameters. So your “income” fund may, in practice, contain many stocks that should be considered “growth,” or vice versa.

7. Know your bond funds.

Similarly, you must learn the same about the bond funds you own.

8. Don’t rely on software alone to build a savings plan.

Software programs might not go far enough to devise your asset-allocation plan.

9. Determine your long-term goals.

Do you want to buy a sailboat after you retire? Or pay off your mortgage so you can write a novel? Figure out what your long-term goals are, and what they will cost.

10. Get started.

It’s never too late to get started, and it’s never too late to revamp or revise an asset-allocation plan.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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Though it’s never too late to start, the sooner you begin saving, the more time your money has to grow. Gains each year build on the prior year’s — that’s the power of compounding, and the best way to accumulate wealth.

2. Set realistic goals.

Project your retirement expenses based on your needs, not rules of thumb. Be honest about how you want to live in retirement and how much it will cost. Then calculate how much you must save to supplement Social Security and other sources of retirement income.

3. A 401(k) is one of the easiest and best ways to save for retirement.

Contributing money to a 401(k) gives you an immediate tax deduction, tax-deferred growth on your savings, and — usually — a matching contribution from your company.

4. An IRA also can give your savings a tax-advantaged boost.

Like a 401(k), IRAs offer huge tax breaks. There are two types: a traditional IRA offers tax-deferred growth, meaning you pay taxes on your investment gains only when you make withdrawals, and, if you qualify, your contributions may be deductible; a Roth IRA, by contrast, doesn’t allow for deductible contributions but offers tax-free growth, meaning you owe no tax when you make withdrawals.

5. Focus on your asset allocation more than on individual picks.

How you divide your portfolio between stocks and bonds will have a big impact on your long-term returns.

6. Stocks are best for long-term growth.

Stocks have the best chance of achieving high returns over long periods. A healthy dose will help ensure that your savings grows faster than inflation, increasing the purchasing power of your nest egg.

7. Don’t move too heavily into bonds, even in retirement.

Many retirees stash most of their portfolio in bonds for the income. Unfortunately, over 10 to 15 years, inflation easily can erode the purchasing power of bonds’ interest payments.

8. Making tax-efficient withdrawals can stretch the life of your nest egg.

Once you’re retired, your assets can last several more years if you draw on money from taxable accounts first and let tax-advantaged accounts compound for as long as possible.

9. Working part-time in retirement can help in more ways than one.

Working keeps you socially engaged and reduces the amount of your nest egg you must withdraw annually once you retire.

10. There are other creative ways to get more mileage out of retirement assets.

For instance, you might consider relocating to an area with lower living expenses, or transforming the equity in your home into income by taking out a reverse mortgage.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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The average American household with at least one credit card has nearly $10,700 in credit-card debt, according to CardWeb.com, and the average interest rate runs in the mid- to high teens at any given time.

2. Some debt is good.

Borrowing for a home or college usually makes good sense. Just make sure you don’t borrow more than you can afford to pay back, and shop around for the best rates.

3. Some debt is bad.

Don’t use a credit card to pay for things you consume quickly, such as meals and vacations, if you can’t afford to pay off your monthly bill in full in a month or two. There’s no faster way to fall into debt. Instead, put aside some cash each month for these items so you can pay the bill in full. If there’s something you really want, but it’s expensive, save for it over a period of weeks or months before charging it so that you can pay the balance when it’s due and avoid interest charges.

4. Get a handle on your spending.

Most people spend thousands of dollars without much thought to what they’re buying. Write down everything you spend for a month, cut back on things you don’t need, and start saving the money left over or use it to reduce your debt more quickly.

5. Pay off your highest-rate debts first.

The key to getting out of debt efficiently is first to pay down the balances of loans or credit cards that charge the most interest while paying at least the minimum due on all your other debt. Once the high-interest debt is paid down, tackle the next highest, and so on.

6. Don’t fall into the minimum trap.

If you just pay the minimum due on credit-card bills, you’ll barely cover the interest you owe, to say nothing of the principal. It will take you years to pay off your balance, and potentially you’ll end up spending thousands of dollars more than the original amount you charged.

7. Watch where you borrow.

It may be convenient to borrow against your home or your 401(k) to pay off debt, but it can be dangerous. You could lose your home or fall short of your investing goals at retirement.

8. Expect the unexpected.

Build a cash cushion worth three months to six months of living expenses in case of an emergency. If you don’t have an emergency fund, a broken furnace or damaged car can seriously upset your finances.

9. Don’t be so quick to pay down your mortgage.

Don’t pour all your cash into paying off a mortgage if you have other debt. Mortgages tend to have lower interest rates than other debt, and you may deduct the interest you pay on the first $1 million of a mortgage loan. (If your mortgage has a high rate and you want to lower your monthly payments, consider refinancing.)

10. Get help as soon as you need it.

If you have more debt than you can manage, get help before your debt breaks your back. There are reputable debt counseling agencies that may be able to consolidate your debt and assist you in better managing your finances. But there are also a lot of disreputable agencies out there.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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Up until they start earning a living, and sometimes well beyond that, kids are apt to spend money like it grows on trees. This lesson will help you put your children on the road to handling money responsibly.

Long before most children can add or subtract, they become aware of the concept of money. Any 4-year-old knows where their parents get money – the ATM, of course. Understanding that parents must work for their money requires a more mature mind, and even then, the learning process has its wrinkles. For example, once he came to understand that his father worked for a living, a 5-year-old asked, “How was work today?” “Fine,” the father replied. The child then asked, “Did you get the money?”

2. Once they learn how money works, children often display an instinctive conservatism.

Instant gratification aside, once they learn they can buy things they want with money – e.g., candy, toys – many children will begin hoarding every nickel they can get their hands on. How this urge is channeled can determine what kind of financial manager your child will be as an adult.

3. Seeds planted early bear fruit later.

It’s important to work on your child’s financial awareness early on, for once they’re teenagers, they are less likely to heed your sage advice. Besides, they’re busy doing other things – like spending money.

4. An allowance can be an effective teaching tool.

When your kids are young, giving them small amounts of money helps them prepare for the day when the numbers will get bigger.

5. Teenagers and college-age kids have bigger responsibilities.

Checking accounts, credit cards and debt are as elemental to the college experience as books and keg parties. Teaching high-schoolers about banking and credit will make them more savvy when they leave the nest.

6. Even investing should be learned early.

High schoolers can and should be taught about the market – using real money.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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2. Stock options are still popular. According to the National Center for Employee Ownership as many as 9 million employees participate in some 3,000 plans. In 1990, only 1 million U.S. employees had them.

3. Stock options can be expensive to exercise. The lesson of the dot-com crash: Improperly exercising stock options can cause real financial headaches, particularly when it comes to paying taxes on your profits. Even if you keep the stock you purchased, you’ll still have to pay taxes. But if you’re careful not to overreach, options can be a lucrative benefit.

4. You’ll see these common terms: An employee stock option gives you the right to buy (“exercise”) a certain number of shares of your employer’s stock at a stated price (the “award,” “strike,” or “exercise” price) over a certain period of time (the “exercise” period).

5. There are two common types of plans: Employee stock options come in two basic flavors: nonqualified stock options and qualified, or “incentive,” stock options (ISOs). ISOs qualify for special tax treatment. For example, gains may be taxed at capital gains rates instead of higher, ordinary income rates. Incentive options go primarily to upper management, and employees usually get the nonqualified variety.

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