Uncle Sam doesn’t offer many gifts. This is one.

Contributing part of your salary to a 401(k) gives you three compelling benefits:

• You get an immediate tax break, because contributions come out of your paycheck before taxes are withheld.
• The possibility of a matching contribution from your employer — most commonly 50 cents on the dollar for the first 6% you save.
• You get tax-deferred growth — meaning you don’t pay taxes each year on capital gains, dividends, and other distributions.

The federal limit on annual contributions has been increasing gradually, and is $16,500 for the 2010 tax year. If you’re 50 or older, you may contribute an additional $5,500

Keep in mind, however, that while federal law sets the guidelines for what’s permissible in 401(k) plans, your employer may set tighter restrictions. Plus, it will take time for the administrators of your plan to implement the changes.

What’s more, there are other federal non-discrimination tests a 401(k) plan must meet, one of which applies to “highly compensated” employees. So if you make more than $110,000 a year (the limit for 2010), you may not be permitted to contribute as high a percentage of your salary as some of your lower paid colleagues.

For all its tax advantages, the 401(k) is not a penalty-free ride. Pull out money from your account before age 59-1/2, and with few exceptions, you’ll owe income taxes on the amount withdrawn plus an additional 10% penalty.

Also, be aware of your plan’s vesting schedule — the time you’re required to be at the company before you’re allowed to walk away with 100% of your employer matches. Of course, any money you contribute to a 401(k) is yours.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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To an insurer, you’re not a person, you’re a set of risks. An insurer bases its premium (or its decision to insure you at all) on your “risk factors,” including some things that may seem unrelated to driving a car, including your occupation, who you are and how you live.

2. Insurers differ.

As with anything else you buy, what seems to be the same product can have different prices, depending on the company. You can save money by comparison shopping.

3. Don’t just look at price.

A low price is no bargain if an insurer takes forever to service your claim. Research the insurer’s record for claims service, as well as its financial stability.

4. Go beyond the basics.

Most states require only a minimum of auto-insurance liability coverage, but you should look for more coverage than that.

5. Demand discounts.

Insurers provide discounts to reward behavior that reduces risk. However, Americans waste money every a year because they forget to ask for them!

6. Ask for the real thing.

Insurers cut costs by paying only for car parts made by companies other than the car’s manufacturer. These parts can be inferior. Demand parts by the original equipment manufacturers (OEMs).

7. At claims time, your insurer isn’t necessarily your friend.

Your idea of fair compensation may not match your insurer’s. Your insurer’s job is to restore you financially. Your job is to prove your losses so you get what you need.

8. Prepare before you have to file a claim.

Keep your policy updated, and re-read it before you file a claim so there are no surprises.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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Such a plan ensures that your family and financial goals are met after you die.

2. An estate plan has several elements.

They include: a will; assignment of power of attorney; and a living will or health-care proxy (medical power of attorney). For some people, a trust may also make sense. When putting together a plan, you must be mindful of both federal and state laws governing estates.

3. Taking inventory of your assets is a good place to start.

Your assets include your investments, retirement savings, insurance policies, and real estate or business interests. Ask yourself three questions: Whom do you want to inherit your assets? Whom do you want handling your financial affairs if you’re ever incapacitated? Whom do you want making medical decisions for you if you become unable to make them for yourself?

4. Everybody needs a will.

A will tells the world exactly where you want your assets distributed when you die. It’s also the best place to name guardians for your children. Dying without a will — also known as dying “intestate” — can be costly to your heirs and leaves you no say over who gets your assets. Even if you have a trust, you still need a will to take care of any holdings outside of that trust when you die.

5. Trusts aren’t just for the wealthy.

Trusts are legal mechanisms that let you put conditions on how and when your assets will be distributed upon your death. They also allow you to reduce your estate and gift taxes and to distribute assets to your heirs without the cost, delay and publicity of probate court, which administers wills. Some also offer greater protection of your assets from creditors and lawsuits.

6. Discussing your estate plans with your heirs may prevent disputes or confusion.

Inheritance can be a loaded issue. By being clear about your intentions, you help dispel potential conflicts after you’re gone.

7. The federal estate tax exemption — the amount you may leave to heirs free of federal tax — changes regularly.

The estate tax hit $3.5 million in 2009, but was phased out completely in 2010, but only for a year. Unless Congress passes new laws between now and then, the tax will be reinstated in 2011 at $1 million.

8. You may leave an unlimited amount of money to your spouse tax-free, but this isn’t always the best tactic.

By leaving all your assets to your spouse, you don’t use your estate tax exemption and instead increase your surviving spouse’s taxable estate. That means your children are likely to pay more in estate taxes if your spouse leaves them the money when he or she dies. Plus, it defers the tough decisions about the distribution of your assets until your spouse’s death.

9. There are two easy ways to give gifts tax-free and reduce your estate.

You may give up to $13,000 a year to an individual (or $26,000 if you’re married and giving the gift with your spouse). You may also pay an unlimited amount of medical and education bills for someone if you pay the expenses directly to the institutions where they were incurred.

10. There are ways to give charitable gifts that keep on giving.

If you donate to a charitable gift fund or community foundation, your investment grows tax-free and you can select the charities to which contributions are given both before and after you die.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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There are term policies, or pure insurance coverage. And there are the many variants of whole life, which combine an investment product with pure term insurance and build cash value.

2. Insurance is sold, not bought.

Agents sell the vast majority of life policies written in the U.S. because the life insurance industry has a vested interest in pushing high-commission (and high-profit) whole-life policies.

3. Whole life is expensive.

Policies with an investment component cost many times more than term policies. As a result, many people who buy whole life often can’t afford an adequate face value, leaving themselves underinsured.

4. Whole-life policies are built on assumptions.

The returns quoted by the agent are simply guesses – not reality. And some companies keep these guesses of future returns on the high side to attract more buyers.

5. Keep your investing and insurance strictly separate.

There are better places to invest – and without the high commissions of whole-life policies.

6. Buy enough term coverage to fill your needs.

Life insurance is no place to skimp, especially with rates at historic lows.

7. Match the term of the policy to your needs.

You want the policy to last as long as it takes for your dependents to leave the nest – or for your retirement income to kick in.

8. Buy when you’re healthy.

Older people and those not in the best of health pay steeply higher rates for life insurance – so buy as early as you can, but don’t buy until you have dependents.

9. Tell the truth.

There’s no sense in shading the facts on your application to get a lower rate. Be assured that if a large claim is made, the insurance company will investigate before paying.

10. Use the Web to shop.

Buying life insurance has never been easier, thanks to the Internet. You can get tons of quotes – and avoid the pushy salespeople.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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To an insurer, you’re not a person; you’re a set of risks. An insurer bases its premium (or its decision to insure you at all) on your “risk factors,” including your occupation, who you are, what you own, and how you live.

2. Know your home’s value.

Before you choose a policy, it is essential to establish your home’s replacement cost. A local builder can provide the best estimate.

3. Insurers differ.

As with anything else you buy, what seems to be the same product can be priced differently by different companies. You can save money by comparison shopping.

4. Don’t just look at price.

A low price is no bargain if an insurer takes forever to service your claim. Research the insurer’s record for claims service, as well as its financial stability.

5. Go beyond the basics.

A basic homeowners policy may not promise to entirely replace your home.

6. Demand discounts. Insurers provide discounts to reward behavior that reduces risk.

However, Americans waste money every year because they forget to ask for them!

7. At claims time, your insurer isn’t necessarily your friend.

Your idea of fair compensation may not match that of your insurer. Your insurer’s job is to restore you financially. Your job is to prove your losses so you get what you need.

8. Prepare before you have to file a claim.

Keep your policy updated, and reread it before you file a claim so there are no surprises

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In effect, you’re giving the government an interest-free loan.

2. If you have too little withheld, you may be charged an underpayment penalty.

You must pay 90% of what you owe for the tax year by the end of that year or an amount equal to 100% of your tax liability for the previous tax year, whichever is smaller.

3. Not every dollar of your taxable income is taxed at the same rate.

That’s because portions of your earned income fall into different brackets, which are assigned different tax rates. Generally speaking, the first dollar you make will be taxed at a lower rate than your last dollar. Your marginal tax rate is the tax bracket at which the highest (or last) portion of your income is taxed.

4. Your combined tax bracket determines how much tax you’ll owe on income from investments such as CDs and money market funds.

Your combined bracket is the sum of your top (or marginal) federal tax rate and your top state income tax rate. It may be less if you itemize deductions since you will be able to deduct your state income tax on your federal return.

5. If you file your return by April 15, but don’t pay the tax you owe, you may receive a late payment penalty.

The same goes if you file for an extension. An extension only allows you to file your return after the due date. But full payment is still required by April 15. If you make a partial payment by then, you may be charged interest on the amount outstanding.

6. You can reduce your chances of being audited.

One of the best ways is to fill out your return completely, correctly, and on time every year.

7. You should pay estimated taxes if you’re self-employed; expect hefty investment income or profits from a property sale; or if you don’t have enough taxes withheld to cover the taxes you’ll owe on non-wage-related income.

Retirees should also consider paying them if they haven’t opted for voluntary withholding on their pension or IRA payments. Estimated taxes are due four times a year (April 15, June 15, Sept. 15, and Jan. 15).

8. Your adjusted gross income (AGI) is your total income minus certain “above the line” deductions such as deductible IRA contributions, alimony payments, or health savings account contributions.

Your AGI primarily determines whether or not you’re eligible for tax breaks. Almost every break, be it a deduction, exemption, or a credit, has its own AGI limit.

9. Your taxable income is your AGI minus exemptions and deductions.

The less your taxable income, the less in taxes you’ll owe. That’s why it’s in your best interest to take advantage of tax breaks where you can.

10. A credit is better than a deduction.

A credit is a dollar-for-dollar reduction of the taxes you owe. A $100 credit means you pay $100 less in taxes. A deduction reduces the taxes you owe by a percent of every dollar you’re allowed to deduct.

You calculate the worth of your deduction by multiplying your marginal (or top) tax rate by the amount of the deduction. If you’re in the 25% tax bracket, a $100 deduction means you’ll pay $25 less in taxes (0.25 times $100).

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There are sensible ways to save money on insurance, but skipping coverage isn’t one of them. Medical bills from even a minor car accident can deplete your savings – a major illness can push you into bankruptcy.

2. If your employer offers insurance, grab it.

Group coverage, particularly when it’s employer-subsidized, is almost always a better deal than anything you can get on your own, even if you’re young and healthy. If you’re NOT young and healthy, it’s definitely a better deal.

3. Comparing plans is tough but necessary.

Unfortunately, there is no such thing as standard coverage. Benefits and costs vary widely from plan to plan. If you have choices, you’ll have to examine each one closely to find the best deal.

4. The lowest premium isn’t always the cheapest plan.

What your insurance covers is just as important as, and sometimes more important than, what you pay up front. Ultimately, the cheapest plan is the one with the best price for the benefits you’re most likely to use.

5. Even good coverage can have big loopholes.

You can count on your health insurance to cover you for a hospital stay. Most policies cover doctor visits, but benefits for mental health, prescription drugs and dental care are strictly optional.

6. You’ll pay more for freedom.

Plans with the most comprehensive coverage at the lowest out-of-pocket cost require you to use a specified network of hospitals, doctors, labs, and other providers. The more flexibility you demand, the more you’ll pay, in either premiums or co-payments.

7. You can check out networks before signing up.

A growing number of public and private sources compile information on the track records of individual doctors, hospitals, and health plans.

8. You can keep your insurance if you lose your job.

State and federal regulations protect you from losing your health coverage in the event you lose your job. Unfortunately, they offer little protection from high premium costs. However, jobless workers may get help paying for these premiums as part of the economic stimulus bill.

9. Working couples have more to think about.

If you and your spouse both get health insurance at work, you must sort out whether it makes more sense to have two policies or for one of you to cover the other. If you have kids, you need to decide who’s going to cover them.

10. Tax breaks can help.

Ordinarily medical expenses, including insurance premiums, are not tax deductible until they exceed 7.5% of your income. However, if you’re self-employed or your employer offers a flexible spending account, you can get a tax break without meeting the threshold.

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Those with more years until retirement can afford to put a greater percentage of their assets in the stock market.

2. Stocks mean risk and return.

Those with a higher tolerance for volatility should put more money in the stock market than those in the same age group who have a lower tolerance.

3. College savings funds need stocks.

Since college costs are rising faster than inflation, no other investment will keep pace as well as stocks. Invest more in stocks when your kids are young, and as they get older move more money into bonds.

4. Get professional advice.

One of the best ways to develop an effective asset allocation plan is to consult a qualified financial planner.

5. Allocation is the key to achieving your goals.

Studies have shown that asset allocation is the single most important factor in determining returns from investing.

6. Know your stock funds.

Before you set up your asset allocation plan, you must find out the nature of the companies purchased by the mutual funds you own. It’s not enough to go by the names of the funds themselves, either. In search of performance, far too many fund managers buy stocks that barely fit their portfolio’s explicit investing parameters. So your “income” fund may, in practice, contain many stocks that should be considered “growth,” or vice versa.

7. Know your bond funds.

Similarly, you must learn the same about the bond funds you own.

8. Don’t rely on software alone to build a savings plan.

Software programs might not go far enough to devise your asset-allocation plan.

9. Determine your long-term goals.

Do you want to buy a sailboat after you retire? Or pay off your mortgage so you can write a novel? Figure out what your long-term goals are, and what they will cost.

10. Get started.

It’s never too late to get started, and it’s never too late to revamp or revise an asset-allocation plan.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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The National Center for Employee Ownership (NCEO) estimates that about 9 million Americans hold stock options and that the plans account for at least several hundred billion dollars.

In 1990 there were only about 1 million workers covered by a few hundred stock option plans. Today there are nearly ten times that many employees participating in some 3,000 plans.

Still, management continues to receive the lion’s share of stock option grants. Of companies that grant options to more than half their employees, nonmanagement receives 45 percent of total options allocated, on average.

At the largest companies, this average is 29 percent. At biotech and computer firms, however, 55 percent of option grants go to nonmanagers.

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If you can’t commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner – even in a rising market. When prices are falling, it’s an even worse proposition.

2. Start by shoring up your credit.

Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover.

3. Aim for a home you can really afford.

The rule of thumb is that you can buy housing that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you’ll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford.

4. If you can’t put down the usual 20 percent, you may still qualify for a loan.

There are a variety of public and private lenders who, if you qualify, offer low-interest mortgages that require a down payment as small as 3 percent of the purchase price.

5. Buy in a district with good schools.

In most areas, this advice applies even if you don’t have school-age children. Reason: When it comes time to sell, you’ll learn that strong school districts are a top priority for many home buyers, thus helping to boost property values.

6. Get professional help.

Even though the Internet gives buyers unprecedented access to home listings, most new buyers (and many more experienced ones) are better off using a professional agent. Look for an exclusive buyer agent, if possible, who will have your interests at heart and can help you with strategies during the bidding process.

7. Choose carefully between points and rate.

When picking a mortgage, you usually have the option of paying additional points — a portion of the interest that you pay at closing — in exchange for a lower interest rate. If you stay in the house for a long time — say three to five years or more — it’s usually a better deal to take the points. The lower interest rate will save you more in the long run.

8. Before house hunting, get pre-approved.

Getting pre-approved will you save yourself the grief of looking at houses you can’t afford and put you in a better position to make a serious offer when you do find the right house. Not to be confused with pre-qualification, which is based on a cursory review of your finances, pre-approval from a lender is based on your actual income, debt and credit history.

9. Do your homework before bidding.

Your opening bid should be based on the sales trend of similar homes in the neighborhood. So before making it, consider sales of similar homes in the last three months. If homes have recently sold at 5 percent less than the asking price, you should make a bid that’s about eight to 10 percent lower than what the seller is asking.

10. Hire a home inspector.

Sure, your lender will require a home appraisal anyway. But that’s just the bank’s way of determining whether the house is worth the price you’ve agreed to pay. Separately, you should hire your own home inspector, preferably an engineer with experience in doing home surveys in the area where you are buying. His or her job will be to point out potential problems that could require costly repairs down the road.

The above post is from the CNN Money series called “Money 101.”

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